Huaca Pucllana

As one approaches the Huaca Pucllana site, in the middle of numerous high-rise buildings, the enormity of the effort is not readily apparent. In some ways, it just looks like a mountain of mud - which is sort of is - until you get close. And then . . . it begins to unfold. Built about 500 AD, this large, 18-hectar pyramid had been hidden under a mound (it was a motocross practice area for kids in the 1960) until 1980, when Isabel Flores Espinoza convinced the authorities that some excavation needed to be done. By 1984, some of the excavation began, and from April to October every year, archaeologists continue to uncover miraculous finds. Due to buildings surrounding it, only 6 hectares remain. The pyramid was primarily a sacred site and burial area for the Lima, who built it over about 400 years, partially as a tribute to the ocean, as evidenced by the iconography that consists of sea creatures, but especially of sharks. Then another tribe, the Huari, took it over, and then it was occupied by the Uchsma until the Spaniards arrived. It fell into disrepair and gradually disappeared from Peruvian life. The pyramid is constructed strictly of adobe, made from clay, water, seashells, and rocks. What is particularly notable about it is that the blocks are laid as if they are on a library shelf. Why? Earthquakes. Lima has many small tremors, and this construction weathers the tremors better than laying them like bricks. And they figured that out 1500 years ago!

Evidently it was used for the elites of the culture, and numerous high-society members were buried there. Excavators have found many tombs, consisting of a mummy that is wrapped in leaves and textiles with a fake head on top, surrounded by many gifts and frequently sacrificed children. Tombs have had up to 8 children buried in the tombs, but the archaeologists have yet to determine who the children are (family members, friends, or others) and why they are sacrificed.

One stunning observation is how many of the pots and tombs are totally intact. It appears as if the site was just allowed to drift into oblivion and it was not looted or ruined by conquerors. So many other archaeological sites consist of broken pots put back together, but many of the pots in this exhibition are very large and in perfect shape. And the mummies are totally undisturbed. What a treasure Huaca Pucllana is!